[Paul & Xenia Ferris]

I looked up the part and the basic number for the bezel is 14528 for the single switch. (14527 seems to be the one for the 4 and 5 ganged switch)

For Full Sized Mercury in 69 the part is C9AZ-14528-A and for the Montego and Cougar lines the part number is C8AZ-14528-B

When I check the Ford part book I see the same part numbers for the Full sized and the mid-sized and Mustang. There is a confusing duplication for the mid-sized line showing a C8AZ-14528-A for 69 as well.

Lincolns, Marks and Thunderbirds seem to take different numbers.

I think you are safe to use a full sized Ford as a donor if you are working on a full sized Merc and to source from a mid-sized Ford or Mustang if you are working on a Montego or Cougar.

There is also a backing plate for the Montetgo and Cougar that doesn’t seem to appear on full sized cars. The part number is C8AZ-14523-A for both Ford and Mercury

I hope this helps!

[Paul & Xenia Ferris]

This afternoon I got a follow up response from ACC’s Marketing Director. She informed me that the new version was ready. I have to say I’m quite impressed with the results! Here is a link to the new version -https://www.accmats.com/assets/images/products/Logos/133.jpg

[Paul & Xenia Ferris]

Fred & Nna, That’s an interesting story on your car. I am wondering why my Cyclone has the ‘Cobra Jet’ emblems on the hood scoop. I have seen a few others with it and magazine articles showing them, but its not listed in the Mercury parts book and it’s not appearing in the sales brochure. Still I know them to have been on the car since new. The main reason for my post tough is that I recently had to replace a wiper motor too and if by some coincidence you are still struggling, the part number for the motor is C6OZ-17508-D. They were used in the Comet/Montego line from 66 though 72. Mercury’s get no respect in the aftermarket parts books but in this case it turns out that Ford used them in 67 and 68 Mustangs and Cougars as well and then in 79 and beyond Mustangs later on. So if you go to your favorite parts store and tell them you have a 67 Mustang, you can get a rebuilt replacement fairly quickly. That is what I did. Hopefully after all this time you are not still hunting for a solution but just in case, here is something you can try.
Paul

[Paul & Xenia Ferris]

Hi Phil,

I recently had a similar experience after a brake job on my Cyclone that turned out to be the socket that had decided to stay behind, and then fall off.

I checked with the master parts book and illustrations and I see several wire wheel covers that were offered in 68. I don’t believe that anyone was doing anything special back then yet as far as attachment is concerned. On our 84 Cougar there is a place to remove the plastic center cap and there is a detent where a small screwdriver can go to do this. Once that is off you see a special nut that you must remove in the center that will allow you to remove the wheel cover after that. This was done to deter theft, but I do not believe that this was being done back in 68. I know when I worked at the local dealership back in the late 70’s the Thunderbirds came with some very nice wire wheel covers and there was no lock mechanism on those.

I am going to go on the assumption that you have never pulled a wheel cover off before and do my best to describe the steps necessary as best I can.

In my experience, the heaver and nicer a wheel cover is, the more and tighter gripping teeth it has. Your wire cover will probably take a little more effort than a regular one. The cover should come off with the end of the jack handle or a very large screwdriver. The idea is to pry it off from the edge. You will want to take your time and try to avoid working with the very edge of the cover. Some of the nicer ones have lips that bend easily. You’ll want to pry a little deeper than at the lip. Sometimes it is easier to twist the tool to get things moving. Once you get some movement, move the pry tool you are using an inch or so around the perimeter and try there. Typically, there is a little bit of noise involved when the cover moves. After you repeat this process a few times it will get easer and eventually the cover will pop off. You will want to be ready to catch it so that it doesn’t get scratched by impacting the ground.

Installation is fairly simple. You wedge in one side of the cover and gently pound the edge back on. I like to start with the side that has the valve stem to make certain that it aligns and is through the cover. The best tool for this job is a rubber mallet. In the old days I used to use the heal of my palm but as I got older I realized that a mallet is much cheaper to replace or fix. Here again, you will want to avoid the very edge of the lip and focus your efforts more towards the last bend of the cover to avoid bending the lip. Sometimes as you work around the edge, where you started will come loose and you will have to start over. But with some patience it doesn’t take that long. You will know when you are done when the edge is the same distance all around and no longer moves. Also, the cover will tend to “Ring” when you hit it everywhere you do. While it moves it will make much less noise.

I hope this helps! Good Luck!
Paul

[Paul & Xenia Ferris]

Kirby, I just looked the the forums for the first time tonight. Hopefully you have found your answer by now but just in case I looked at my Mercury parts book and Standard cooling part number for 70 Cyclone with 351 is D0AZ-8005B the core dimensions show 1-1/2″ thick, 17 7/8 in” height and 21-11/16″ width. The extra cooling and A/C part number is D0OZ-8005-A with 2-1/4″ x 26″ x 17-7/8″ measurements. The Ford parts book shows identical part numbers for the 70 Torino for those applications. My guess would be that you would have the extra cooling for a GT. I own a 69 and I find myself verifying against Torino parts all the time because you are more likely to find it that way. I had my original radiator re-cored locally a couple weeks ago. I checked out Champion’s website and they list number 381 for both the Montego and Torinos. The core dimensions are slightly different than what Ford claims to have used. If you hadn’t found a solution yet, I hope this information is useful.

Paul Ferrs

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