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A final follow up to the Dash job. Everything is fixed and working again. The pads went back on no problem, since the mechanic told me the simple secret to getting it seated. Glad I can drive my car around again, and go to cruise ins!
That’s news to me! (About the AM noise suppression I mean.) But it might also fix the bouncing around of the needle.
If it’s a condenser then I would be suspicious. They definitely don’t have an unlimited life. That’s the first thing that goes on radios, computers etc.
Finally got my dash’s top pad off! I had the help of my mechanic though. Here it is:
The mechanic whipped it off in 5 seconds! He grasped the left vent hole near the windshield, and lifted up in order to clear the gauge cluster that was block progress. I’ll probably have to do that when I put it back.
Now I can change all the bulbs, the clock and the wiper switch…
BTW, I’m 5 yrs. younger (yeah, I use a really old pic, haha) But my goto mechanic is coming over next week with his buddy, and see if they can get it off. I’ll be watching closely. My dash pad (top one) is also all disconnected, the passenger side is ready to slide off, but the driver’s side is stuck, but moves around ok. I think it has to clear some cluster stuff. But once that is off, I think the rest is doable for me. Every time I attempt to get it off, I am injuring my hand (gets all dark and swollen)
Wow, I’m in the same boat, only with a ’69 Marquis. I’ve been struggling with it for a week now..
Good for you! I had a local bodyshop do my trunk springs when one of them let go.
Probably would have helped had you mentioned your car’s year and engine, since they used the Autolite 2100 for decades! Anyhoo, I have that on my ’69 Marquis with a 429. It will start ok within one week. But more than that, and I do a squirt of starter fluid in the carb. before starting (while the choke is still open, to save my starter). Just make sure your auto. choke is closing before you start cranking. On my car, after a day or two, you have to floor the gas pedal once good, to set the choke. Then it’ll start instantly. Plus you have to depress the gas pedal just a tad while cranking. The only time you almost don’t need to do any of this is if the car has only been off a little while. This is all according to my owners manual. It does work too.
Instead of giant multi-page articles about a non-Mercury truck, why don’t we have another one of these emblem contests! I missed the first one, but it sounds interesting.
That IS something to look forward to! I might be getting my car out for a spin in the next day or two. It is still very cold, but previous rains rinsed off the roads, and currently they are bone dry. Plus my car has a great heater!
I don’t know why you want a Holley, but I replaced my OEM 2v carb with this one I got on Amazon. I put it on my 1969 Marquis Conv. last summer, and it works great. It only cost $225, and no core was needed. Everything connects properly. Meanwhile I had my Autolite carb rebuilt as a spare.
Good luck on your motor rebuild! Now that I have all new headlights, the vacuum cut-off switch appears to have gone bad, which I was using while working on the headlights. I have a new one ordered. Always something…
Thanks, it does help! When you said an extended time with the brights, how long did you mean? Have you driven an extended time with the brights on since you changed the headlight switch? Because you said it seems ok now.
Thanks for the reply! That is interesting about the hi beam causing your headlights to go out. The headlight switch being the culprit is even more interesting, but perhaps was already beginning to go bad. I had to replace my headlight switch already, as the interior lights weren’t working, and that was the reason. Although the headlights and taillights etc. all worked normally. Did the headlights seem brighter to you after the change?
