[Virgil & Sue Klein]

This is a common problem with the ’53s as everything rusts out behind the bumper.  They make universal sockets that I used when I restored my ’53.  These have spring clips around the socket that you can plug in to the back of the turn signal assembly.  You just need to get the correct size.  Any decent parts store will have them in stock.  As I recall, I had to do a little grinding on the assembly to get mine to fit properly.  They have been in there for several years now and work just fine.  If you need to change a bulb you simply “pop” them out, put in the bulb, and put them back in.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Just got off the phone with Gary Richards regarding your question.  The simple answer is that they are not the same color and in fact Gary says the hubcap color isn’t actually red but something more toward burgundy but not that dark.  He also said the color is translucent so that you can see through it slightly.  He suggested trying a hobby shop spray paint selection.  The problem with using translucent paint is that if you scuff the hubcap so that the paint will stick the scuff marks will show up through the paint.  If you don’t scuff the hubcap the paint won’t stick and will come off with the spray from a hose.

 

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I don’t know of a company who makes a kit for all the clips.  The only factory clips you will need on your ’55 are the rocker panel molding clips and the roof rail clips.  All of the other stainless (quarter panels, fenders, doors, hood) can use the universal clips that bolt on).  You can get them in various sizes at any parts store and for a whole lot less money than the factory clips.  When I did my ’55 a few years back I got the roof rail and rocker panel clips from a gentleman in Whittier, CA.  His name was Guy.  I reached him at 310 696 3307.  I don’t know if he is still in business as this was almost 20 years ago.  I think some of our suppliers (Mercuryland, MACS, Dennis Carpenter) may also have these clips or know where you can get them.  Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Check on ebay item #380413145337  It is the exact part you are looking for.  There is  just over 1 day left for the item to be available.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Might I add to Jerry’s post that you consider Dearborn Classics?  They seem to be more involved with the cars from the 60s.  I am sure they could answer your question.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

What specific switch are you looking for?

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I “googled” ’54 Mercury Sun Valley and came up with the following information regarding color for these cars.  They were only available in 2 lower body colors according to the article.  Those were yellow and mint green.  Both came with a dark green top.  You can find the original body color of a ’54 by looking at the first two numbers on the data plate (located on the drivers door jamb) under “body specif”.  If your car was an original white car that number would be 22.  The black one you reference would have an 01.  Post that two digit number and I will tell what the original color of your Sun Valley is.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Don’t know if this will help, but essentially ’52-’56 (except ’56 is 12 volt) are identical heating systems.  The location of the control levers in the dash assembly are slightly different but the balance of the system is the same.  I have done several of these systems so if you want to email me separately I will see if I can be of help.  Email is virgil53@windstream.net

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Try contacting Merle Fourez.  He advertises in Quicksilver.  His ad says he does ’49-’55 but it might be worth a call.  Number in the ad is 805-646-3345.  Otherwise, you will just have to go down the list of advertisers and parts supplers until you get a lead on one.  Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I looked at Gary Richard’s Tech info in the Fall/2001 issue of Quicksilver which discusses the ’59 Model Identifications.  In that article the first letter in the serial number is the engine code.  For ’59 the identifying letters are either L, M, N, or P for the US produced models.  It appears obvious that the Canadian cars use a different ID code.  Not sure where to find the Canadian IDs.  Did you buy a complete car or just the engine?  Where on the car is the R1 located?  There were only three engine sizes offered in the US for ’59.  They are the 430 cu. in., the 383 cu. in. (two barrel carb or four barrel carb) and the 312 cu. in.  Sorry I can’t currently be of more help.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Power steering was available from the factory in ’54.  You can add it with the proper parts.  You will need a pump, control valve, power (hydraulic) cylinder, and linkage.  You will also need a drive belt for the pump and the hoses to connect your pump to the control valve.  If you get a shop manual for your ’54 (Faxon Auto Literature) there is an entire chapter devoted to power steering.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I copied the shop manual pages for Tom and sent them to him last week.  He should have them by now.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I’ll give it a shot.  Email me at virgil53@winstream.net

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Harold,

I know Gary well.  You would be better off giving him a call.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

There are a bunch of them in IMOA.  Use the contact box to access the member directory and click on ’58 model year.  There were at least 6 there.  Don’t know if they are running or not but there is contact info for the owners.  They are not all Montclairs, but a couple of Parklanes and a Monterey or two.

[Author]

Posts