[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Sorry for not understanding exactly what you mean by “road lamp”.  Can you please describe the part in a little more detail?  Do you mean headlight, or fog lamps, or spotlights or some other type of light?  Again sorry for the language issue but I have not heard the term road lamp before.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I would start with a NAPA auto parts store or another good parts store.  I would not think this modulator would be that difficult to find.  There are many parts suppliers who advertise on the website so don’t forget to use them as well. 

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

In past issues of “Quicksilver”, Gary Richards did a series of articles called Tech Info Series.  Basically it was the various codes to decode your “VIN” and also the data plate.  The plate is actually referred to in the literature as a patent plate.  The ’58 Mercs were covered in the summer issue in 2001.  I have that issue and can decode your serial number above as well as the codes for style, color, etc.  Just post them here on the website.  OK, here is what the M8ZA525404 means.  By the way, in ’58, this is referred to as a serial number as opposed to a VIN.  The leading “M” refers to the engine and means you have a 383 cu in engine, the “8” is the model year; ’58 in your case, “Z” is the assembly plant; St Louis for your car.  Now some difficulty with Gary’s series.  The “A” is a body identification code and those are not listed in Gary’s article.  The “525404” is the consecutive unit number.  Hope this helps and I will watch for your info.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Welcome to the Mercury family.  It is nice to have you join us.  Red fluid under a ’58 Monterey would indicate a transmission or power steering leak (if so equipped).  Both areas could be issues on a car that has sat for that long.  I assume you changed all the fluids before you began to drive the car.  The transmission leak could be a number of places but the pan gasket would be the first place to expect a leak.  This should be relatively easy to repair.  Other issues could be transmission seals which would need more extensive work.  Good luck with your project.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I would check with your local upholestry shops or ask other car people in your area who does good car interior work.  Any good upholestry shop can do the sewing you require and can also “build” the seat for you. 

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I went to the 2009/2010 printed Membership Directory and found 37 owners of ’49 Mercs so it doesn’t seem that they are that rare of a car.  I think I knew that the ’49s have a unique water pump in that the flathead motor mounts are part of that assembly and it is a bit different for ’49.  The tail lights would have the same situation but a generator pulley just does not seem like a one off item.  I know you said you called every  advertiser in the directory but I have an old catalog from Concours Parts in Carson City, NV that lists bumper bolts specifically for a ’49.  It looks like the catalog is from 2008.

I would guess that parts suppliers have slimmed down on their inventories and manufacturing for those parts that don’t have a huge following.  A supplier has to be able to have the part at a reasonable price with enough demand to cover the set up expense.  I assume we all know that.  Good luck with you search.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Mapquest shows the distance to be 108 miles from Shipshewana to Fairmount and just over 2 hours.  Hope you can make the trip.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I went to the website for C&G Early Ford parts to look at part numbers and see what is different.  It appears the ’49s have a different motor mount and water pump than the other years.  Did you change water pumps at the time of the overhaul?  If you used a later model water pump it has a different mounting system that will bolt right up to your flathead block but will have the wrong mounting brackets.  Their parts catalog has pictures that might help you as well.  I would suggest giving C&G a call to see what is going on in your situation. 

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

My friend owns a repair shop in So Cal and at least twice in the last couple of years has had cars come in for repairs that were purchased in an online auction.  The pictures on line looked great and the cars were “exceptionally clean” according to the ads.  They may have been clean but in each case it took over $10,000 to get the cars safe and roadworthy.  If you buy a car online without seeing it first you need to have your head examined.  It is still the ol’ horse trade days out there and certainly “buyer beware” applies in every case.

Oh yeah, and COMPLETE, obviously doesn’t mean complete. 

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

It would depend on the reason for the leaking rear main.  If the seal is worn out, of course it will leak, but that may not affect oil pressure.  However, if the rear main is leaking because the rear main bearing is worn then you could also have low oil pressure.  There are other reasons for low oil pressure including worn cam bearings, a worn out oil pump, or oil that has too low of viscosity or just low oil levels.  You could also have an oil pressure gauge or sending unit that is malfunctioning.  Hopefully it isn’t too serious or expensive to fix.  By the way, does a ’71 have a PCV system?  If so, you might want to be sure that everything is functioning properly.  A plugged PCV valve or a constricted hose can create tremendous pressure in an oil pan that will push oil out of any weak spot.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I’m not sure about the hardness factor on seat attachment bolts.  I certainly would not use the softest metal as there can be a lot of stress on those bolts and the last thing you want coming loose in an accident would be the seat.  I don’t think I would use anything less than a grade 5.  I would guess you can by threaded stock by hardness at a decent auto parts store or hardware store.  I also like to use “a big ol’ honkin’ washer” (that would be a technical term) under the floor board to spread the forces out a little.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I can think of a couple of solutions that may work.  Depending on how much of the stud is left you could use a threaded coupler and thread it onto the stud (you may have to clean up some thread to get it started) and then use some threaded stock of the proper size and thread it into the coupler, run it through the floor board, and tighten the nut.  If there is not enough stud left (a common problem for us old guys) I am guessing you will have to drill out the stud and then simply use a bolt and nut of the proper length, diameter, and hardness.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

A ’56 engine is gold (heads, block, water pump, pan) with dark blue valve covers and air cleaner assembly, with silver lettering on the valve covers.  I am not sure about gloss vs semi gloss for the aprons.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I would agree with you that once you have the pan off you might as well replace the rear seal.  I think the ’54s had some issue with that rear seal leaking.  I looked up rear seal installation in my ’54 shop manual and it appears there is a need for a special tool to seat the seal into the grooves properly.  Not sure where you could purchase such a tool but I would check with FelPro for help.  Maybe someone else has replaced that seal without the tool and can post on the website.  Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Hi John and thanks for the info.  Looks like our posts “crossed in the mail” so to speak.

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