[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I looked at my ’54 shop manual for a routing diagram for the vacuum hoses. There is no diagram for that in the manual. There is a vacuum line from the intake manifold that goes through the firewall to the wiper motor. You can “T” off of that to go to the heater valve on the heater plenum under the dash. This is the valve that has a cable from the lever on the dash. There is a vacuum line from that valve to the heater control valve on the block that exits the interior with the wires for the heater motor and cable for the vent control again through the firewall.

Also, you would “T” off of the main vacuum line to the control that activates the washers. From that control a vacuum line would run to the washer fluid container.

As long as those wires are hidden I don’t think it matters exactly how you route them.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Simply, yes. The kit is also offered by other vendors.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Check with C&G Early Ford Parts in Escondido, CA. They show the seal for ’39 & ’40 Mercs. Give them a call at 760 740 2400. Good luck.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

What year and model are you referencing?

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Typically the fuses on these older Mercs are located individually for each accessory. That is to say the radio will have a fuse along the wire taking power to the radio and so on for each accessory (clock, cigarette lighter, heater, etc.) There is not a “fuse block” like you see on newer cars.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Check with C&G Early Ford Parts. They show rebuilt distributors for your ’52 on their website. I have ordered parts from them in the past with great results. They are in Escondido, CA. They can answer your question regarding interchange. I see no reason why the Ford would not be the same as a Merc. I think they would also rebuild your distributor for you or have the parts to do so.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I would check with any good parts supplier for Ford parts. I looked at Napa’s website and also Dennis Carpenter. Both show oil pressure sending units for a ’56.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

I think websites exist for exotic cars such as Corvette, Cobra, Ferrari, etc. I am not aware of any that do so for Mercury. The Cougar Club of America may have information on some of the more rare Cougars.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

You can find data plate info on the internet by “googling” the make and year and data plate info. For your ’59 I got the information from the Spring 2001 issue of Quicksilver. Trim code 326 is medium blue metallic vinyl and medium blue box weave cloth. There are also trim codes 326A through 326D listed with minor differences in the material used but all medium blue metallic.

Also, if you get a shop manual for your car they usually have data plate decode information in them as well.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Ed,

I do use the original wheels without any problems whatsoever. I have heard that the flexing of the radial could cause problems especially with hubcaps staying on the wheel but that has not been an issue either.

Any wheel that can be used with a tubeless tire should be adequate. You referenced wheels from the 40s and most of those required a tube. Not a good thing with a radial tire.

One other comment: do not get tires that are too wide as they will not fit between the rear brake drum and the body of the car when you try to put them on.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Originally a ’54 Merc had 7.10X15 tires with a recommended tire pressure of 23-25 lbs. When the “alphabet” sizes came along the 7.10X15 was a G so a G78X15 tire was the proper size. These were all bias ply tires. Tire conversion charts for the metrics show a 205/75R 15 as the same size.

I have a ’55 with the same tire size recommended. I use a Firestone FR721 (their name for the tire has nothing to do with size) in a 225/75R15. This is of course a radial tire. I do not personally care for the wide whites on these cars which was original style equipment and this is why I purchased the Firestones. They have a white wall that is 1.5″ wide. I like the black between the wheel and the whitewall. Your personal preference for originality is very important.

As I recall they were not overly expensive. If you go to Coker tires for the original wide white and tread design in a radial tire they will be very expensive.

There is no doubt that the radial tires will make for a MUCH better handling car. The choice is yours: stick with bias ply and keep the originality but give up handling; use an original type tire in a radial and spend a bunch of money; go to a later model radial that gives up the originality.

If you are concerned about judging of your car, IMOA does not do “Concourse judging” at its events so as I long as the tires are clean and the proper size it is not a problem. If, however, you are going to events that do concourse judging then whitewall width, tread design, and construction can become an issue.

Hope this helps.

Virgil Klein
Head judge IMOA

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Oops, forgot to mention the race is on Sunday, the 25th.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Check with C&G Early Ford Parts in Escondido, CA. They show a horn ring insulator for ’52-’56. They show part # B5A-3672-A. Their phone number is 760-740-2400. They are open from 8 to 5 PST. I have worked them in the past and they know these cars very well.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Suggest you might call Carlos. I’m not sure he ever looks at his email.

I am not at all familiar with Rush Gears.

[Virgil & Sue Klein]

Anything is possible at an auto manufacturing plant so your explanation could be one possibility. Usually though the parts for a car are beside the assembly line in racks that are programmed to be in the right place at the right time. I have seen cars with Maverick grills and Comet badging, Cougars with Mustang emblems, etc. Another might be someone trying to clone a GT Pace Car. You don’t say if you are the original owner so anything is possible.
As to your windshield wiper motor issue, contact Carlos Vera in Colorado. You can look up his info on this website by going to the “member directory”. He has a ton of Comets and even more parts.

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